Search Results for "190"

Air-fuel converter, an aftermarket tuning computer sold by A'PEXi. It is similar in some ways to the PMS and VPC but is generally considered less elaborate. The Super AFC was the basic toy to get but was removed from Apexi's website in 2006. As of 2015, AFC NEO is the new thing.

The original AFC is now known as the "knob-style" AFC. It had physical adjustment knobs on the front for 5 ranges. The "Super-AFC" uses a digital display and pushbuttons to alter settings in 8 RPM ranges, and has separate settings for high throttle and low throttle. The deprecated "Super-AFC II" is similar but adds more RPM ranges and other features to the devices.

Honestly, for the price, get ECMLINK. Lose the AFC route.

That depends on which model you have.  All of these cars have inline 4-cylinder engines, but the displacement and intake systems differ.

Base and mid models have non-turbo (NT) engines, while upper and AWD models have turbo (T) motors. All are 2.0L, except the base model (1.8L) and the non-turbo Spyder (2.4L). Details on the various configurations are below.

Table 1: 1990-1994 Talon/Eclipse/Laser/Galant 

Table 2: 1995-1999 Talon, Eclipse and Eclipse Spyder 

Table 3: 1996-1999 Eclipse Spyder 

Astute readers (or longtime owners) will notice the 190/195 horsepower "split" in the 1G models. This difference arises in differences in the published factory specifications for the different marques through the 1990 and 1991 model years and not through any actual known changes in the cars themselves. Eventually all the turbo models were rated at 195 horsepower.

The Last Word: People once thought the 2G 2L NT had 190 cc injectors, but according to Nathan Cross (moderator of 2GNT.com) they're actually 235 cc. Also, 2G autos were incorrectly listed as 390cc, while in actuality all turbo 2Gs have 450cc injectors regardless of drivetrain. [Thanks, Nathan!]

In general, normal idle for a DSM is 750 RPM. However, due to specifications for various components, an idle of 700-825 RPM displayed on your tachometer can be considered normal (in the absence of other symptoms). This specification applies to a fully warmed vehicle with all electrical accessories switched off (except Canadian vehicles, which have DRLs).

The car will have a higher idle under certain circumstances:

• The vehicle not fully warmed up (+0-500RPM, slowly falling)
• The A/C is on (+200-250RPM)
• The vehicle is not at a complete stop (+150-200RPM)

Note:

1G owners can expect 1.8L engines to idle at 800 RPM, while 2.0L (non-turbo and turbo) idle at 750 RPM. With the air conditioning on, automatics will drop to 650 RPM, while manuals will rise to 850 RPM.

2Gers will get 800 RPM out of their non-turbos, and 750 RPM from the 2.0 turbo and 2.4L engines. Again, this will rise to 850 RPM with the air conditioning on.

If your car does not idle exactly at these levels, or changes its idle slightly, occasionally or while driving, don't freak out. Few cars idle at precisely the designed level, owing to variations in climate and engine components. All of the above levels are rated at plus or minus 100 RPM, and the car will sometimes adjust the idle acording to driving conditions. If you don't have a problem with the car, leave the idle alone.

Some DSMers have problems with an unstable idle, or with their car being unable to maintain idle when coming to a stop. The first problem is a symptom of a badly set base idle, while the second in an indication of a broken speed sensor. Those with idle surge problems go here; those with cars that die at stoplights go here.

According to Todd Day, the acknowledged expert on DSM ECUs, this is not a good idea for 1Gers in search of serious speed. He also stated there are at least 17 temperature-dependant tables in the ECU, so skewing the engine temperature might not be a good thing. However, many people have installed them with no ill effects.

It is possible that the lower temperature thermostat will operate ok in the summer but not in the winter. Some owners have commented that their datalogger temperatures stay in the 190 degree range in the summer when using a 180 degree thermostat. This is usually high enough to keep the car operating as intended. In the winter, though, the average temperature drops too low, and the car never exits "warm-up" mode. This causes the car to run rich and drop significant gas mileage.

2Gers are different. Apparantly, 2G cars have a 180 deg. thermostat from the factory, and at least one DSMer has installed a 170 degree one. However, the same caveats about lowering from the stock temperature apply equally well to 2G cars.

OUTDATED INFORMATION!

Top Ten as of July 2015  (Source: http://www.dsmtimes.org/times.php?Page=1)

[Note: From time to time, debates on the definition of a 'DSM' emerge on the Digest. These debates usually center around a record-breaking car which, because it does or does not have a certain component or feature, 'should' or 'should not' be considered a 'DSM' in the 'true' sense of the word.

Such judgements are entirely subjective and cannot be resolved, except by arbitrary rules; resist the temptation to reopen any such debate on the Talon Digest, as the moderator (and membership) are tired of hearing about it. All race results that can reasonably be deemed related to DSMs are reported - whoever is king in your own mind is best kept to yourself.]

• Mail items marked as GIFTS worth less than $60 ($CAN) have no duty.
• Mail items worth less than $20 ($CAN) have no duty.
• Automotive parts made in the United States have no duty.

Don't believe me? Read this brochure from the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency. The package value and contents are declared by the sender. Some people call new parts 'warranty replacements', which cites their value as zero but still allows them to insure for the full amount.

Note that factory DSM parts come from Japan, and are therefore subject to duty. This could hypothetically be avoided if the sending vendor were to accidentally forget to mention that the parts originated in Japan.

Also note that the parts may be subject to GST even though they are duty-free.

If you're fortunate enough to travel, Canadians are allowed to bring back goods into Canada duty-free, up to a certain limit. The current limits are:

• out of country for 24 hours: Up to $200 CAD;
• out of country for 48 hours: Up to $800 CAD;
• out of country for 7 days or more: up to $800 CAD;

which means that if you can carry it back, you should. Shipping from the U.S.A. is expensive, too. Alternatively, you could get somebody else to bring it back for you. Note that these limits are correct at the time of this writing; check with  Canada Customs - Residents Returning to Canada for current information.

If you are reading this, chances are you are either having a problem with your cooling system, or would like to make it more efficient. Below is a list, both 1G and 2G specific, that can help when making your decision and troubleshooting a failed cooling system. This FAQ focuses on stock-style cooling systems.

Your cooling system consists of 5 major components. They are your Radiator, Thermostat, Radiator Cap, Water Pump and Cooling Fans. We will discuss these in detail throughout this FAQ.

To sum it up, there are only 3 reasons why your cooling system will fail.

1: Lack of flow 
Typically this is caused by a failed water pump, a stuck thermostat, a blocked or clogged radiator. A failed water pump will have the tell tale sign of coolant seeping out of the weep hole. You will typically notice a large pool ofcoolant below your timing belt cover area. Barring any broken hoses from your Oil Cooler, this is usually a sign of a failed water pump. 

A stuck thermostat will reveal itself when your car is at operating temperature, your coolant is full, however your upper radiator hose is cold. Eventually the pressure inside the system will exceed the radiator cap's spring and you will start pushing coolant into your overflow. Change your thermostat.
A clogged radiator will reveal itself when all others fail. Usually, you can visually see debris in between the fins of your radiator. If there is enough of it, it will impede airflow past your radiator, and the efficiency of your radiator will not be sufficient enough to cool your engine. Flushing your radiator is as simple as removing it, pressure washing or hitting it with compressed air to blow the fins clean, then flushing the internals with water. Introducing aftermarket equipment in front of the radiator such as an FMIC or oil cooler without proper ducting will also impede airflow.

2: Lack of Coolant/Incorrect mixture
Typically this is due to a leak of some form. Find it and repair it. Your cooling system travels through a number of areas including your water pipe, turbo (if applicable), Oil cooler, water pump, throttle body, heater core and overflow container.

The ideal mixture is 50/50. That's 50% Coolant (Ethyl Glycol) and 50% distilled water. This mixture works for most driving habits under most conditions, however, most of us do not fall under this "Average" driving habit, and increase of water into your cooling system will allow it to perform better. Water does a fantastic job of removing heat, so the more of it you have, the better. Do not run straight water, your cooling system requires coolant to lubricate and increase the boil temperature of water. A great additive for your cooling system is a product called "Water Wetter", and is found at your local Canadian Tire, Autozone, Part Source, Napa etc.

3: Pressure.
As your cooling system heats up, the water in your system expands and your radiator cap keeps this expansion pressure in your system, raising the boil point of the water. As you drive your car, coolant will be pushed out into your overflow as the system creates pressure. Albeit a small amount, this amount returns to your cooling system once the car shuts off. As the engine cools, it creates a vacuum and barring all the funky Fluid and Thermo Dynamics, replenishes the cooling system by sucking it in back through the overflow via syphon. 

There are mainly 2 reason why your coolant will not be sucked back into the system:

1. Radiator Cap: A poorly functioning radiator cap will allow for too much coolant to be pushed out and/or not enough seal to allow for the syphoning of coolant back into the system. 

2. Overflow bottle/hoses: The overflow bottle should be below or at level with your theromostat housing, and a line inside the overflow bottle that goes down past the normal cold level for your coolant. Cracks or tears in the hose between the overflow bottle and thermostat housing will also impede a suction of coolant, and will pull in air. 

Pressure can also come from the combustion chamber. A failed headgasket will either allow for coolant to enter the combustion chamber and be burned, or push air into the cooling system. Typically, the signs of a failed headgasket would be one or more of the following:

1. Foaming of coolant
2. Burning of coolant (White smoke)
3. Oil in Coolant/Coolant in Oil
4. Overheating condition within 10 or so minutes of driving
5. Overflow bottle filling up/overflowing at operating temperature
6. Coolant being pushed out of the rad cap under boost
7. Lack of return from overflow bottle to cooling system
8. Increase of pressure in cooling system/pushing coolant to overflow. (This can also be attributed to a failed radiator cap)

Lets discuss the 5 components, what they do, how they do it and how to maintain/increase their efficiency.

Radiator
Arguably the most important part of the system, the radiator is a heat transfer device and allows for flowing air through the fins to transfer heat from the engine to the air and dissipate. There are three things you need to remember about your radiator.

1. Airflow
2. Coolant flow
3. Airflow

In order for coolant to pass through your radiator, it must not be clogged. Ensuring your radiator is free from contaminants will ultimately keep it working as efficiently as possible. Your radiator hoses are also a must-maintain part of this important system. Cracked, worn, or soft radiator hoses are just a few heat cycles away from failing. I have personally seen a car cooling after a run down the track and the upper rad hose splitting open before my eyes! 

Airflow is also THE key to a properly working radiator. We add FMIC's, Oil Coolers, Transmission Coolers, Power Steering coolers all in front of the engine cooler and then wonder why our coolant temperatures start to skyrocket. If you look at a stock DSM, you'll notice there are many plastic shrouds all around the radiator. These are there to direct air directly to the radiator, and not let it bleed off from around the car. When adding upgraded components to your car, it is crucial that you imitate these factory shrouds by building your own ductwork to direct air to the radiator. Without airflow, the radiator cannot do it's job. A great test for this is to turn on your fans with the hood closed and see if it will suck a piece of paper to your FMIC. If it can, chances are your airflow is pretty good. 

Thermostat and Radiator Cap
These two critical parts of the cooling system can be the difference between overheating and overcooling. The thermostat keeps the pressure in the system, upping the boil point and keeping all that nice expensive coolant in the car. 
 

Quote:
There are three seals in the rad cap. One on the outside that seals the water neck housing. Second seal is on the inside that is spring loaded and seals inside the water neck housing. This one maintains the pressure in the cooling system. Once pressure builds past 11 lbs with a stock rad cap from the coolant heating and expanding, its pushes past this seal into the over flow until pressure falls back below the rad cap specs.

How does it come back in when it cools ? There is a third seal or valve which works in the opposite direction. Its the round metal thing in the middle of the second seal. When coolant contracts, this valve opens and allows coolant from the overflow to flow back into the coolant system. Under pressure and expansion, this metal valve is sealed shut against the second seal. The cooling system constantly goes through this cycle of expansion and contraction which your driving, the rad cap needs to be functioning properly on order for it to do so.

A 16lb rad cap will cause all your lines to be a little more pressurized than a stock rad cap, but will increase boiling point. You'll notice your overflow coolant level fluctuate more with a 11 lb rad cap than a 16 lb rad cap. I like to keep my cooling system a little more "loose" with the stock rad cap.

-- Credits to Reza Mirza

The thermostat is what regulates your temperature, and oddly enough, the pressure in the system as well. Pressure is defined as a resistance to flow, and the thermostat creates just that. Without a thermostat, you will eventually overheat due to lack of pressure, so keep it in there. Your thermostat can fail both open and closed, and it's pretty easy to figure out what will happen in either circumstance. Installing too low of a temperature thermostat will cause an overcooling condition, which can be just as harmful as overheating. Your ECU depends on the engine getting to a certain temperature for normal operation, and if the car does not get to that temperature, the ECU will always think it's simply still warming up, keeping it in openloop mode. In openloop, the ECU depends on it's internal tables to tell how much fuel to introduce, and typically, this is a rich mixture. Also, the ECU depends on thecoolant temperature to begin learning fuel trims. This temperature is around 180 degrees for a 2G, and 190 for a 1G. Also, using a colder "racing" thermostat to try and combat an overheating problem is rarely the solution. A car that overheats will overheat no matter at what temperature the thermostat opens, it will just take longer for it to happen.

Water Pump
A variable displacement pump, the water pump's job is simple; Keep the coolant moving through the system. The water pump rides on a sealed bearing and is spun by the crankshaft via the alternator/water pump belt. The "weep hole" is a small hole at the top of the water pump and in a failed bearing/pump circumstance, coolant will drip out of this hole. Typically it is best to replace the water pump every time you do a timing belt job, as you need to remove the timing belt in order to do it. Ensuring a good seal between the pump and block as well as between the water pipe and pump will prevent you from having to do the job more than once. Take your time!!

Cooling Fans
Properly installed, shrouded and working cooling fans are critical to not overheating in stop and go traffic. A 1G has a thermoswitch at the bottom passenger side of the radiator that controls the fans on/off, whereas the 2G has an ECU controlled setup. Different combinations of setups can both do the job equally (2 pullers, 2 pushers or one of each). The OEM fans work great, and if you can keep them, do so, however most of our upgrades prohibit such an idea, so they came out with slim fans. In this scenario, bigger IS better. If you can cram a 14" slim fan in there, do it. The more airflow you can provide to your radiator, the better. 

Hoses
Last but not least are all the coolant lines and hoses. As your car ages, so do the parts, and with the expansion/contraction of your coolant lines, the eventually will begin to deteriorate. Check your lines every so often to ensure there are no soft spots, cracks or tears as these are signs of impending failure. The smallest soft spot will eventually lead to a leak or split in the line.

Coolant Mixture
Lets take a look at the coolant mixture. What is the best mixture? Some will say 80/20 water/coolant, some say 70/30, some will say 50/50, but it's all in what works for you and your area/driving style. If you live in a hot area, a 75/25 mix might work, but colder areas require more coolant than water, so a 50/50 is best. Ensuring your coolant mixture is correct, and that the system is full at all times will ensure your car cools itself properly. Air is the enemy to your cooling system, and it ALWAYS comes from somewhere. Be it a cracked line, failed rad cap or improperly burped system, air will cause all sorts of heating/cooling conundrums that can drive a person mad. If everything above is in good working order, you will never get air in the system, period. 

So, there you have it, a basic writeup about a typical DSM Cooling System configuration, how it works and where to start when that temperature gauge starts creeping up on you in 30*C weather in stop&go traffic. I hope this thread has been helpful for you.